The Boulders, a river cascades past
For the last time it was up and over the mountain range, as we began our journey across the Savannah Way. The Savannah Way extends from Cairns to Broome over in Western Australia, some 3,500 kilometres. Whilst only driving as far as the Northern Territory border, we still experienced many facets of climate and vegetation.
Ravenshoe provided us with rainforest and rolling mountain pastures, and claims to be Queensland’s highest town. It is a small town, but also the last stop for essential supplies. Just past Ravenshoe is Australia’s widest falls- Millstream Falls. Their true beauty is only seen in the wet season; however it was a refreshing scene before heading on to the edge of the inland Savannah region.
Our camp on the Archer River
After a night camping on the bank of the Archer River, we were keen to ‘take to the waters’ of the Innot Hot Springs a few kilometres down the road. Thermal pools awaited us to soothe away any aches and pains. $7 bought us entry into the pools and we had to stifle the giggles. The Innot Hot Springs are in need of some ‘sprucing’ up. The grounds and pools have certainly had their heyday, but still we did enjoy a relaxing soak.
Innot Hot Springs
Refreshed we once again hit the bitumen. The trees thinned out becoming a thick scrub with the odd bottle tree to break up the horizon. The scenery stretched on for miles without change, so a detour to Undara and the world’s longest lava tubes was in order.
A mere 190,000 years ago (very recent in geological terms), Mother Nature set about creating this rare volcanic phenomena. A single volcano erupted and caused the lava to flow over 160 kilometres. As the air cooled the surface, the lava continued to flow beneath the surface in a ‘tube’. Once the eruption stopped the lava flowed out of the tubes, leaving the hollow tunnels hidden underneath.
Inside the Undara Lava Tube
In parts the roof has collapsed, creating a cool oasis for a semi rainforest to grow- such a contrast to the stark savannah landscape. We walked through 3 of the lava tubes, imagining how at a temperature of 1200 degrees everything in its path would have been destroyed.
Old linesman's hut, discovered on walk at Undara
The campsite at Undara was one of the best bush sites we have stayed at. Nothing beats the smell of a campfire while gazing at the stars, and I didn’t mind the cute Bettongs that hopped over to us each night in hope of a feed.
But after a couple of days, we bid farewell to the Bettongs. We were heading further inland, the road becoming a mere thin strip of bitumen down the centre. To pass an oncoming car we both had to pull off the bitumen strip and travel on the gravel verge. With the threat of weeds invading this remote land, we drove through the ‘washdown’ at Mt Surprise. Clean at last. Well for the few seconds before the dust settled on us again.
Driving through the washdown, Mt Surprise
The towns are sparse, but with not much else to see we made use of all the ‘attractions’. Mining was once big out here, the plentiful gold and minerals now all but gone. Rusted relics of this boom time dot the land. Some 20 kilometres past Georgetown was a chimney, a lone relic from the gold crushing plant built by Cornish miners. The dusty land gives no clues to its former wealth however the nearby dam was rich in bird life, another oasis in this dry land.
Relics of a Gold Rush past, near Georgetown
Croydon. Located in the heart of the Gulf Savannah country and steeped in history. Once the fourth largest town in Queensland the population has dwindled to 250, however the history is alive and well preserved. There are still untapped gold reserves here, located underneath the historic buildings of the court house, jail and police station. During the gold rush the roads were lit by gas lamps, and these still line the sandstone kerbed streets.
Historic precinct, Croydon. Note gas lamps.
With a large population of Chinese settlers (as most goldfields had), archaeologists have discovered the remains of Chinatown from the late 1800’s. Stories of individuals line the walk around the site and remains of a Joss House.
Remains of the Joss House, Chinatown, Croydon
Racist laws are the reason that Australia’s pioneering history does not have more of a Chinese influence. They were restricted and controlled but were better than the Europeans at growing market gardens in these harsh, dry conditions. Funny how racism was ‘forgotten’ when they could provide a valuable resource.
Australia once had the majority of its population living in country areas, the cities home to a far less number. How times have changed. These once bustling towns, with numerous pubs and dwellings have become a thing of the past.
If only the market gardeners still thrived out here! We were becoming low on supplies and the next town of Normanton sold wilted vegetables at exorbitant prices. There are no real ‘supermarkets’ out here, and food deliveries are weekly, so we had to make do with what we had. Again Normanton was once a bustling town (during the Croydon gold rush days, it was the port), and the buildings stand testament to the wealth once here. There is also a monument to the biggest saltwater crocodile ever shot. The life size 8.6 metre replica of ‘Krys’ has been authenticated by the Guinness Book of Records, but surely there are not crocs this big out here?
Krys the crocodile
Normanton Railway Station is home to the ‘Gulflander’. Every Wednesday at 8.30am this historic train travels on the original railway to Croydon. Built in 1889 the station is still in mint condition. There were visions that the Gulf would be the gateway to the Asian markets and this railway could be linked to others in Australia. Alas, this was not to be and the train has not made a profit since the 1920’s.
Normanton Railway Station
Just 79 kilometres from Normanton is Karumba, on the Gulf of Carpentaria. There is nothing more to Karumba than being a remote fishing village. But travellers flock here to watch the sunset melt into the Arafura Sea and fish. The town has only a few shops, but 3 Caravan Parks, and as we were to discover they were all full to the brim. Grey Nomads escaping the chilly winters ‘down south’ come to this 30 degree day paradise for months at a time. We were squeezed onto patch of grass for a night and witnessed the community that forms each year. Talk of fish was all that could be heard, but signs around the park directed you to who could cut your hair, provide a massage, teach art and crafts, or join a fitness class, amongst other necessities. Everyone seemed to provide a service, ensuring the comforts of home were not missed in this no frills town.
Karumba, trailers and boats everywhere
Not being fisherpeople, we only stayed one night, but did manage to purchase some King Salmon at a ‘cheap’ price. Some of the best fish we have tasted. For us it was a journey west on the Matilda Highway. I say highway, but this stretch of road is dirt and flat. The yellow Spinifex of the Savannah out here is contrasted by red rocks and a brilliant blue sky. Water appears in patches creating wetlands that are a haven to all manner of birds, including some very tall brolgas. There was plenty of road kill out here, ensuring the ever present hawks and wedge tailed eagles circled above us.
Brolgas on the Savannah Way
Isolated and dusty, the stretch of road towards the Northern Territory border seemed endless. This is the country that finally claimed Burke and Wills in 1861, and it is easy to see why.
Yipee, a tree! The desolate Savannah country
However, we finally made it to Burketown. European settlers were no match for this outback place and died in droves, but for us it had a Caravan Park, Service Station and pub. It took us 2 minutes to walk the town, so we decided to have a beer at the 130 year old pub and meet some of the locals.
The Burketown Hotel
As we walked inside the scene before us was confronting. About 50 aboriginal men were enjoying a beer, the sounds of their native tongue foreign to our ears. There were no white people in sight. They seemed friendly enough, so we bought a cool ale and sat down. It wasn’t long before we were approached and the gathering explained. We had arrived in Burketown on the day the Federal Court had sat in town to hand back the land to the local Doomadgee peoples.
We made new friends and listened to stories of being taken away from their mother, only to finally come back. But back to what. No land, no culture and introduced to the white man drink. It is a story replicated among many aboriginal communities that we have come across. They blame the white man for introducing alcohol, which brought about the destruction of all that they knew and the proud peoples they once were. Alcohol is a drug and not one easily given up.
However, they were proud to have their land returned. We were welcomed, but once again headed west to Queensland’s most scenic national park- Lawn Hill. Situated in remote North West Queensland, the park is made up of lush gorge country, rich red sandstone ranges and world heritage fossils. The spring water that feeds the gorge, and flows all year round, gives life to an otherwise parched landscape. Rather than walk the gorge we opted to canoe the 6 kilometres.
Canoeing into the Gorge, Lawn Hill
As we paddled into its heart, we were engulfed by the magnitude of the gorge walls towering above us. Freshwater crocodiles live in the emerald waters, but we did not expect to see any. However, a loud snap, snap had us both looking into the Pandanus lining the bank. There sat a large ‘freshie’ devouring a catch. There is not much protection in a small canoe, but this species of croc is more scared of us than we are of them. However, we were soon to encounter another- a rather large male, who hissed at us in anger. We managed to paddle fast away from that one. Still it did not deter us from a swim later, it is hot up here!
He started to get a little angry with us....
Riversleigh, 50 kilometres from Lawn Hill, but still part of the national park is home to 25 million year old fossils. Many species of birds and animals have been uncovered here and fossicking still continues. Once underwater, the limestone of this area has kept these relics preserved. We only had access to a small part of this World Heritage Area, but the ‘Fossil Trail’ took us past skeletons of crocodiles, turtles and ‘Big Bird’, undisturbed since the Oligocene period.
Leg fossil of 'Big Bird'
With supplies running low, we made the very long and very dusty drive to Mt Isa, with only Brahman Cross cattle providing entertainment to look at.
They really are fine specimens....
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