Wet and wild

Leaving Townsville we headed to the Paluma region- the southern gateway to the ‘Wet Tropics’. We were now only 70 kilometres north of Townsville, but in another world, the vegetation thick like that of Papua New Guinea.
Up here the mountains of the Great Dividing Range roll and tumble close to the ocean, the flat coastline a contrast to the sheer size of the ‘hills’. We camped at Rollingstone, on the beach, but journeyed up a narrow, steep and windy road that led us to the Paluma National Park. At 1000 metres above sea level, we were soon walking through a rainforest in the clouds.


Walking through the clouds, Paluma

It is still the wet season and given we were in the wet tropics, it was bound to rain. A tropical storm thundered down from above, yet under the canopy of the rainforest we were protected from all but a few drops.
However, cloaked in low cloud we could not see a thing from Witts Lookout, just a sea of white stretching far out in front of us. The rain was set in, so we opted to head back down the mountain, away from the rainforest and her wetness. Little Crystal Creek, nearing the base of the mountain, is a popular place to swim, especially under the stone arch bridge. Built during the 1930’s depression, it provided much needed work, yet in this climate they would have earnt every dollar!


Little Crystal Creek

Awaking to a new day, it was one once again shrouded in mist, thanks to low clouds trapping the warm sea air. It creates a very pretty effect, but the downside is the humidity. As we walked to Jourama Falls the sweat trickled down our backs. So when we arrived at the first of two creek crossings and knew we would get wet, we didn’t mind too much. That was until I saw the state of the crossing....... Balancing on slippering rocks, ankle deep in fast flowing water I was not amused.


Creek crossing, Jourama Falls

However, the view of the falls was worth it. Tiered over many levels the volume of water cascading down makes you wonder how this country could ever be in drought.

Hot and sweaty we needed a swim and Big Crystal Creek provided the perfect crocodile free spot. Natural water slides, given the slipperiness of the rocks, give this waterhole a playful feel. Some ‘mad’ locals were diving head first down the slides into the plunge pool. Dave had few turns sliding down on his bottom, but I opted to swim in my own private pool a little further downstream. While splashing about I also saw my first Ulysses Butterfly- the famous fluorescent blue butterfly of the tropics.

Swimming, Big Cyrstal Creek

There are many great swim spots and waterfalls in this region, but one we could not miss was Wallaman Falls, near Ingham. Driving up another steep, windy narrow road, Wallaman Falls is a real treat. At 268 metres it is Australia’s tallest sheer drop falls. The surge of water falling is mesmerising, the mist created reminding me of Niagara Falls.

Wallaman Falls

Heading back to the coast, we stopped off at Lucinda, were Australia’s longest jetty stretches 6 kilometres out to sea. The jetty is so long that it has had to be built in line with the curvature of the earth!

Lucinda Jetty- 6km's long!

Driving north once more, the beauty of the tropics was all around us. Pine and palm trees line the road, but not far inland mountain peaks get lost in clouds, thick tropical growth seeming to devour their bulk. It is pretty, but the humidity and bugs are not. I could not live up here, so it was a testament to Dave’s Great Grandfather and Grandfather who did. Settling in Cardwell they were school teacher and student respectively. Enquires at the local museum provided us with some information on said Stubbins and the life they led.

Cardwell Historic centre

Tully, just north of Cardwell claims to be Australia’s wettest place. We would have to agree. On approach the blue sky turned grey, the heavens opening up and stayedg with us to Mission Beach. The wet season officially ends on May 1, but this year it looks to be a little delayed. Still the bonus of this tropical climate is the abundance of tropical fruit.

Apparently Mission Beach is paradise. With a rainforest that meets the sea and 14 kilometres of palm lined beach I can see why it could be so. Lying on the golden sands, gazing out at the steel blue sea dotted with tropical islands sure would be a relaxing time. However, our days at Mission Beach were wet and humid, the sea off limits due to stingers. The locals are not sure what is happening with the weather. Many head south from November till now, staying away for the oppressive wet season. Having now arrived home they too are suffering the weather.

Mission Beach

Mission Beach is famous for its Cassowaries. We did not encounter any of these prehistoric birds, during our walks through the rainforest, just big bugs making us feel we had landed in the Valley of the Giants!

Don't run! Dave and Cassowary friend

As we headed further into the tropics, the overcast days stayed with us. Paronella Park at Mena Creek, looked like it has not had a dry day for many a year. In the 1930’s a Spanish immigrant had a dream to build a castle. On 13 acres beside Mena Creek, he built his castle complete with a theatre, tennis court and picnic grounds. Visitors could come and use the facilities- sort of like a, early day theme park.

Paronella Park at night

The story of how the castle came to be in ruins is plagued by death, insurance fraud and destruction by tropical cyclones. It is an interesting place to visit and is more reminiscent of a lost Amazon city than a castle in country Queensland.

Love and hate

Aaah Rockhampton. We began a love affair with this town on our first visit, and it still lingers. We cannot put our finger on it, but we could quite easily settle in this town. ‘Rocky’ offers the best of both city and country life- city standard shopping, but authentic country hospitality, topped off with ye olde worlde sandstone buildings.

Customs House and Commercial Hotel, Rockhampton

Known as the beef capital of Australia, life sized bull statues line the main street- however recent Uni pranks have seen the ‘bulls balls’ being souvenired. We camped by the mighty Fitzroy River, Australia’s second largest catchment, which flows through the town. She was in full flow, with plenty of high, green grass lining her banks.

The journey north from Rockhampton re-ignited memories from our first trek north, like walking around Mt Etna trying to find the elusive bats (we never did find them), being chased by a bush turkey and our first free camp spot at Carmila Beach. The sugar cane was still just as tall, a steel green contrast to the now vivid green grass.

As the bitumen danced to the horizon the towns grew further apart. Growing weary, and with no other real option we pulled into Mackay for the night. We had stayed here previously and were not that enamoured with the town. Although we now camped at Black’s Beach, a nicer spot than the Caravan Park in town previously stayed at, our dislike of the town was as strong as ever.


Black's Beach, Mackay

The weather was a little more humid here, but we were not going near the ocean water. Stinger season. Only last week Black’s Beach was closed as a 12 year old girl, wearing a full stinger suit, had a Box Jellyfish wrap around her ankle and exposed foot. Given morphine she was still screaming in pain a full five minutes later.

Once you leave Mackay the vista changes, once again becoming a sight to gaze at. The fields of rippling sugarcane run right up to the edge of a sculptured mountain range. Paperbarks and palm trees line the road. We were on our way to Bowen, famous for being the location of the ‘Australia’ movie. We have both seen the movie, but are not fans of Baz’s work. However, stopping in at the Big Mango, which is also a tourist information centre, we discovered there is more to see and do here.

The Big Mango!

Bowan marks our foray into previously uncharted territory, and we gotta say- we like it! Located at the top of the Whitsundays, it is surprisingly nice. The town still has an air of underdeveloped purity, but with its landscaped foreshores, pretty beaches complete with tumbling granite boulders and swaying palm trees, it is a nice place to chill out.

Horseshoe Bay, Bowen.... a little old lady took the photo for us...

Much beautifying work has gone on since ‘Australia’, but all that remains of the movie set is the Police Station facade. Made of plaster of paris, the weather is playing its part in erasing all evidence of the movie.

The Police Station, 'Australia' movie


Charters Towers was to be our next destination, however having passed through Home Hill and detoured to Ayr, with its Big Snake, we soon came across a warning sign.

Big Snake (actually the Rainbow Serpent), Ayr

The road ahead was very steep and trucks, buses and caravans were warned not to proceed. We were annoyed. We had specifically stopped in at the tourist information centre to enquire about such. A previous hair raising steep road experience had us turning around and heading towards Townsville.

Infact, we stopped about 25 km’s south of Townsville in the Bowling Green National Park. Camped by the Alligator River, we were soon joined by a flock of Bush Turkeys (we have never seen so many) and cute little Agile Wallabies. The showers were cold only, but the crystal clear river was a nice 22 degrees.... so guess where we bathed....



Our bath, Bowling Green National Park

The following morning we hiked to Cockatoo Creek. There is a particular plant up here that has a strong smell like tumeric. It permeates the air and has all on the walk wondering which plant it is coming from.

After a restless night spent listening to the strange sounds of the ‘tropical bush’, we headed into Townsville. Although Queensland’s second largest city, it still has a tropical laid back feel. Sprawled in a valley, the town is nestled in between huge rocky escarpments ending at the sea, giving a sense of space and freedom with the security of impenetrable mountains. Although, lucky WWII ended when it did for the Americans were about to blow up one such mountain, Castle Hill, in order to form a land bridge to Magnetic Island, located 8 kilometres off shore.

Picnic lunch near the Rock Pool, The Strand

The foreshore, known as ‘The Strand’ is manmade, complete with stinger free rock pool. This is just one of the modern developments, giving the impression of a thriving town, yet compassionate with the many heritage buildings. The Museum of Tropical Queensland is a very modern building, however we found the museum itself a disappointment.


My head on a platter, Townsville Museum

Whilst the Pandora shipwreck exhibition (the ship sent to find the Bounty and its mutineers), was worthy, the remainder of the museum was a little too kid centric. Yet, we like Townsville, another place we could easily live in.

Easy Easter

Have you ever noticed that it always rains over Easter, no matter when it falls? It is almost that over 2,000 years later, Christ is still shedding tears as he is nailed to the cross. Lucky the Easter bunny appears with a basketful of chocolate to chase thoughts of a damp holiday away......

Fortunately too for us, as the rain fell over Noosa, we were in a house. Robyn and David proved to be exceptional hosts and our Easter was relaxing.......... and full of chocolate. Between showers we even managed to scour the sights of the region not yet visited.

David, Robyn and Dave, down by the Noosa River









Dave and 'Paige' in Robyn and David's backyard

Timbeerwah Lookout rising high above sea level, gives a 360 degree view of ancient volcano plugs, rising from the lush green space below. Where once lava flowed is now a rich, fertile land that reaches towards the shores of the Sunshine Coast.

Timbeerwah Lookout, ancient volcano plug in background

Noosa River can be seen snaking its way through the environs, explaining why Noosa has so many roundabouts, as the communities mould themselves around the waters path.
Just north of Noosa, the Botanical Gardens of Cooroy showed us what plants thrive in this tropical environment. I even managed to find an Easter egg left over from the hunt, alas the ants had found it before me....... The Gardens may also have swayed me to begin a liking for the Bush Turkey. As we meandered through the grounds, so too did many young chicks. A miniature version of Mum and Dad, they didn’t look nearly as intimidating.

Heading inland ‘up the mountain’ once again to say goodbye to Dave’s cousin and family, we got our last taste of the scenic Sunshine Coast views. The Blackall Range, creating this hinterland region between the beach and the vast emptiness of Queensland’s interior, has some great waterfalls. We enjoyed the Mapleton Falls, which plunge in a sheer drop to a lost world of palms below.

Mapleton Falls, a sheer drop below




This rainforest oasis was a stark contrast to the neighbouring town of Montville, where we spent the remainder of the morning exploring the many village shops.

Having stayed for over two weeks, we made our farewells to Noosa and friends and landed in Gympie. Gympie was the ‘town that saved Queensland’, thanks to its once rich gold deposits. However, the mining stopped in the 1920’s and the town is no longer an important part of Queensland’s growth. A once prestigious main street is now full of discount stores and barbers. Even the air is filled with a foul smell, rather like burnt molasses (there is a food factory nearby). Yet, camped on the edge of the showground, with its green paddocks and stables ringed by pine trees, it was a pretty enough place.

A visit to Queensland is not complete without seeing Flo and Joh’s home town of Kingaroy. The Peanut and Baked Bean capital of Australia, Kingaroy is not just famous for the Bjelke-Petersen’s! Perhaps it is coincidence that the long-time Premier of Queensland came from this ‘South Burnett’ region, but all the towns here are ‘neat as a button’ interspersed between thriving farmlands.

Nearby Nanango was hosting its annual show, and we can say Nanango does put on ‘a good show’. About an eighth the size of the Sydney Royal Easter Show, it still provided us with a day’s entertainment. Wood chopping has always been a favourite of mine, and I must admit to watching the burly men sheer through the tough wood for over an hour. The show was full of country type characters, including the old timer with his trained dog and flock of ducks, whom raced around a makeshift track.

Racing ducks... red won

But the highlight would have to be the dancing Bobcats. Having lined up for a challenge, two of the Bobcats then proceeded to give us a warm up ‘dance’ on two wheels, twisting and turning their machines to music, before getting back in line.

Dancing Bobcat video (20 sec)

Lucky they were wearing safety shoes for the demo........ thongs.

However, our biggest giggle of the day came from the food displays. Who would have thought a packet cake could be entered in the show, displayed in full glory?

Packet cakes on display, Nanango Show


The South Burnett region has much to offer, with the Bunya Mountains another short drive from Kingaroy. Queensland’s second oldest National Park, the Bunya Mountains contain the world’s largest stand of Bunya Pine trees.

Underneath a giant Bunya Pine

Rising rigid from a bed of Bracken and Maiden Hair Ferns, the Hoop and Bunya Pines are unlike any Australian forest we have seen. The setting would not be out of place in the Canadian Rockies, although the wildlife here thankfully does not include Grizzly Bears!





Bunya Mountains, not like the Aussie bush!















Moving on to the North Burnett region, we made a pit stop in Gayndah, Queensland’s oldest country town.

The Big Orange!

Having taken photos at the Big Orange, we then learnt the reason for those ‘Gaypak’ stickers often found on mandarins- they are packed in Gayndah! Not to be outdone the next town, Mundubbera comes complete with the Big Mandarin, we really are in citrus country.






The Big Mandarin!

It was a good a day to be on the road, with the air con on. The outside temp, whilst only in the high 20’s, was exacerbated by the 300% humidity (OK, maybe I exaggerate a little). The clouds danced above us, teasing us that it was going to rain and offering cooling relief.

With the afternoon ticking by, we set up camp in Cania Gorge National Park, with its sandstone cliffs, caves and sheltered gorges. The heavens still had not opened up, but the birdlife certainly rained down on us. Within minutes of preparing a snack Dave had both King Parrots and Lorikeets landing on his head and shoulders. I was too quick to laugh though, as they soon landed on me too.

As the sun prepared to descend the rain finally came- lashings of it. We were soon ‘swimming’ around our camp, but the temperature was sheer bliss.

The Overhang, Cania Gorge

Fortunately the rain finally ceased, but the air remained cool enough to enjoy a few walks in the park. We were not that impressed with the sights on offer, but the wildlife in this park is sure worth it.

Bettong (Rat Kangaroo)

The birds, Bettongs (rat kangaroos), possums and even snakes were out in force for our visit.

Friendly locals, Cania Gorge

Towards the sun

What is it about Sydney that makes many people want to escape? The east coast of Australia is dotted with friends and family who have made the pilgrimage, and so we found ourselves in esteemed company and travelling about 30 kilometres north a day.

Although Queensland really can be ‘beautiful one day and perfect the next’, as with any major city centre, those that relocate to seek their fortune, or escape a past pain do not always succeed. Caravan Parks in such areas, lack that certain holiday feel with many permanent residents. Everyone seems wary of each other, double checking locks and securing sites.... I don’t recommend staying in a Caravan Park on the Gold Coast, but I do recommend lunch at Nobby’s Beach Surf Club!

It was there that we met with ex Sydney friends Bern and Gary, for a lazy lunch overlooking the beach. The Surf Clubs ‘up here’ are quite flash, serving alcohol and restaurant quality fare.

Old friends, Blake, Sharee, Bob, Me and Pat

Another thirty kilometres up the road we found some more old friends, Bob and Pat and their daughter Sharee, whom I had grown up with. Away from the hustle and bustle of Sydney, they sure have found paradise in a Bali inspired house, on the sloping bank of the river. Greeting the new day with breakfast in the ‘hut’ beside the pool, accompanied by a swim...... yes please.

Known for its beaches, the Queensland Coast caters to us sun lovers. With the recent huge swells having subsided, Coolum Beach was a great interlude before reaching Noosa and more friends. I like Coolum. It is an easy place. Beach on one side and strip of shops and cafe’s on the other. However, our memory Coolum will always be Mr Frog. Having bought a lettuce from a roadside stall a week prior, we were using the last of the leaves, when he was discovered in the bag. The cold of the fridge had sent him into hibernation, but as the air warmed his body, he began to blink his eyes. He had travelled with us from the hinterland region, and we were not sure if he would survive in his new beachside address.

Mr Frog, lived in our fridge for a week

Goodbye Froggy, hello Tewantin (Noosa). Our friend Amanda was joining us for a week, so we all set up home in number 21- a Cabin in the Caravan Park. Having flown business class, and looking rather too posh for our set up (hee hee), we soon settled her in with some cask wine and Jatz crackers.

Amanda and I outside 'No 21'

Being back in Noosa was a bittersweet feeling. We were last here at the beginning of our adventure, our senses soaking up the beauty, our mind buzzing with the anticipation of the journey ahead. We are now on the last leg of our journey, a lifetime of memories behind us and a little desensitised to the beauty of ‘another’ beach.

However, with the water temp spot on and the Pandanus Palms gently swaying in the breeze, a swim at Noosa Beach eases away the worries. There are many apartment buildings lining the shore, but with a height of only 3 storeys, and large areas locked away as National Park, there is still a natural beauty to behold. Sometimes though, nature can get a little too friendly. I didn’t really like the ‘huge’ fish in the ocean brushing past, the bush turkeys wanting to inspect my towel or the cream coloured little crabs that thought my armpit was a good spot to dig a burrow.

Sunset on Noosa River, great BBQ spot

However, we all liked the lanky old Koala spotted during our headland walk. Stoned on a diet of eucalyptus leaves he made a vague effort to focus on us as his limbs stretched out, securing a more comfy position in the bow of a tree.

Koala spotted on headland walk, Noosa

The bird life is quite prolific around Noosa too. As flocks of Corella’s and Lorikeets flew in to perch in the ‘riverside tree hotel’ for the night, we were grateful they obeyed quiet time rules. The screeching and squawking finally gave way as coupled up, they nestled in for the night.

'Big' Pelican, Noosa River

The hinterland region surrounding Noosa was lush and green after many weeks of rain. The journey to Eumundi providing some of the best scenery on offer, was superseded by thoughts of what bargains were awaiting. Eumundi Markets really are the best in Australia and never disappoint.

Montville, high up in the hinterland is a quaint little town, but is big on views and gourmet delights. Dave’s cousin and family, more ex Sydney-ites, have set up home here. Nestled in a valley, green after endless rain, the view from the house is one you never tire of. Bubbling creek, rolling hills and a smattering of cows thrown in to complete the picture.

Casper, Olly, Buster the dog and I at their home, Montville

After a week of sun and giggles with Amanda, we bade her farewell. Having had her fill of beach, it was back to Melbourne. We all got to relive a beach memory from childhood- being dumped. The waves were big at Sunshine Beach, around the headland from Noosa, but we were swimming between the flags. How vivid that memory of terror as the waves pummelled, tossing us about with reckless abandon, depositing us on shore shaken, sandy and out of breath.

With the Easter Bunny soon to arrive, along with hordes of tourists, we have settled into Robyn and David’s house. Friends of Dave’s from Sydney, we had caught up with them on our previous visit. Their friendliness and hospitality made it a must to stop by again and the comfy bed may be one we never want to leave....... Noosa sure sucks you into her vortex........