Saturday, November 28, 2009

Zelks does Perth

As our Sydney friends left, the heavens opened reflecting our dampened mood. For four days the wind, rain and grey skies dominated. We needed some salvation, and so we found ourselves driving 132 kilometres north of Perth to Australia’s only monastic town. Established in 1846 by Spanish Benedictine monks as an aboriginal mission, New Norcia- as the town is known, lies in the midst of the Australian bush.

Church, New Norcia

Elaborate Spanish style churches, chapels, monasteries, guesthouses and even a hotel fit for the Queen, house hidden beauty and magnificent artworks. Over time the monks began to live in harmony with the local aboriginals and therefore the mission turned into a boarding school, until closing in the early 1990’s. Since then hospitality (they don’t like to call it tourism) has been the main focus of New Norcia.

Looking up to ceiling in girls school chapel- angels faces are of the favoured students.

The monks welcome you to pray with them in their private chapel, and you can stay in the guesthouse, or hotel to share in the rhythms and routines of their lives. I truly recommend it if you want to refresh the soul!

Inside the boys school chapel

We certainly felt refreshed after our guided tour of the town. Even the sun was out again- just in time for the arrival of our next Sydney friend- Zelks.
In the throes of growing a moustache for Movember, Zelks arrived looking like a 1970’s porn star. Therefore, there was no question- we were taking him to the tavern across the road. All week we had been seeing signs advertising a pole dancer from 5pm. In the middle of suburbia, we just had to check it out..... and take our very own porn star with us. It was 5pm, and yes, there really was a pole dancer. We soon learnt it was a local bikie hang, however they were not allowed to wear their ‘colours’ inside. It was all rather amusing, but oh so wrong......
Needing to finding our path back on the straight and narrow (hee hee), we set off for a morning bushwalk in the Lesmurdie Falls and John Forrest National Parks.

Dave and Zelks, John Forrest National Park

The latter is Western Australia’s oldest national park. In years gone by a train brought picnickers from afar, however the rail line is now a walking track, complete with an old railway tunnel that carves its way through the limestone mountain. It was nice to be out in the sunshine overlooking the Swan Coastal plains, with Perth in the distance (and boy does she look tiny).

Inside the old railway tunnel- using a lighter to see!


However Zelks must think we have an obsession with taverns for in the middle of the John Forrest National Park is just such a place! Just goes to show how the purpose of a national park has changed over the years.
Even Yanchep National Park, which we visited the following day had a tavern! Mind you this national park also has a koala colony imported from Victoria, manicured lawns, Tudor Style buildings and a motel!

Koala, Yanchep National Park

Having been to many ‘modern’ style national parks in our travels it was rather interesting to see some ‘old’ style ones. The main attraction of Yanchep National Park is the limestone caves. We did not opt to do a tour, having seen many, many, many caves before.

Zelks, Yanchep National Park

With taverns off the agenda, it was on to a couple of the Swan Valley’s premier wineries. Houghton’s, an old favourite, was first on the list. It was busy, but as with all wineries we have visited in WA, very friendly. We are still in awe of the size of the tastes- nearly half a glass! Stocked up, we headed for Sandleford, where we also departed with a few new favourites.

Famous Cottesloe Beach, perfect after a day bushwalking

With Zelks’ new appreciation for the botanical Kings Park proved a hit, showcasing plant specimens from every inch of WA. You don’t need to be interested in plants to soak up the beauty of this park, though with its sweeping vistas and majestic monuments. Later it was his turn to introduce me to a new experience- the Casino.
A maxi taxi arrived to pick us and our neighbours, Lauren and Brendan, up for an evening at the Burswood Casino. Having no idea how to play any games, I thought I would be bored after 5 minutes. However, after a drink getting to know our new friends, I soon found myself being the spinner at a game Two Up! Of course I had to bet too and was soon down to my last $15. It was to learn the rules of Blackjack. The game if pretty easy (as most of you probably know) and I was soon making hand signals like an old pro. My first cards dealt were a ‘perfect pair’ and earnt a pretty penny. Word must have spread about my ‘beginners luck’ as I soon had a groupie following, including some Asian’s betting hundreds on my game. I did squirm a little when I lost, and saw their piles of chips raked away. By the end of the night my $15 had turned into a couple of hundred, with Dave and Zelks having similar luck. In front we knew it was time to leave, but all had a great night out!

Fremantle Prison

However, to ensure our gambling does not turn to a life of crime, we took ourselves to the Fremantle Prison. Built in the 1850’s, this maximum security gaol did not close until 1991.

Inside the main cell block, the net stopped boys falling to their death

During this time the only real improvements were electricity and increasing the size of the cells. This means buckets were still used for toilet purposes until 1991! A tour allowed us to view life as it was for convicts and prisoners in the main cell blocks and solitary confinement. Used as a place of incarceration and punishment for almost 140 years, there are many cruel and uncomfortable stories. The whipping post is a grim reminder, however the gallows were the most eerie. Entering the purpose built building, the air felt different, making us gasp in order to fill our lungs. Perhaps we were feeling the fear of many men who took their own last gasps here. The hangman’s noose gently swayed above an open pit, as our guide explained the gruesome process.

The gallows....

I could feel my throat tighten, the air trying to force its way in. We can only imagine how the condemned would have felt.
As the prison neared the end of its life, talented inmates were given permission to paint their cells. Many masterpieces remain on the walls, which is more than we can say for the Perth Art Gallery! A woeful mish mash of ‘art’ left us rather disappointed.

Artwork in prison cell

As Zelks’ last day arrived we once again headed over to Rottnest Island. This time we took the mega blast- a jet boat. The boys loved the ride over. Not sure why. The water seemed to turn to concrete every time the boat slammed down from the crest of a wave. My stomach had that washing machine sensation, as it too rode the waves.

Aboard the Mega-blast

OK- I admit, it was a little fun. We spent the day exploring and swimming. A volunteer guide also led us the local Quokka hang and we got to play with more of these cute little critters.

Quokka cuteness

Tuesday, November 17, 2009

Bright Lights, bright faces

Having stocked our wine cellar, it was time to leave the green and lush Margaret River region. As we passed through Yallingup and Dunsborough we made a mental note of the towns we would like to head back to one day on a 'wine holiday’.

Yallingup coastine

Arriving in Busselton, we were keen to walk the famous 2 kilometre jetty, the longest in the southern hemisphere. At the end of the jetty is a large aquarium and Dave was excited at the prospect of seeing a Sea Dragon in the wild. Alas..... we were only able to walk a mere 200 metres- the jetty was closed for repairs after a recent fire.

The 2km long jetty, Busselton

We had to be content with an ice-cream by the seaside instead.
Bunbury, were we where to stay for the evening, is a prime example of the recent WA boom. Enduring the many steep steps to the top of the Tall Tower Lookout, 360 degree views showed the contrast between the new and the original town, which seemed to have burst at the seams. Shiny new roads, houses and shops, have tripled the size of the town. Yet, all this development has been done sympathetically with the land. Even the mangroves, which are the only ones to be found this far south (the closest are 500kms north) have been looked after. A boardwalk takes you on a journey through the mangrove swamp and along the way signs provide information on the town’s history to keep you entertained.
But, the most entertaining feature of Bunbury was enjoyed the next morn- swimming with wild bottlenose dolphins. A section of the bay, known as The Lounge room, was a short boat ride away. Once there, we spotted about 20 dolphins. Having been away over the cold winter, this is the spot where boys, girls and adults come to catch up for a gossip and play from November to April.

Dolphins swimming towards us in 'The Loungeroom'

We were not allowed to swim over to them. Instead we played in the water nearby and watched as they slowly came nearer and checked us out. The dolphins preferred to circle us from about 20 metres away, but did end up venturing quite close, even swimming directly underneath us.
With our Sydney visitors only a day away, we bade farewell to our dolphin friends and edged closer to Perth. Hugging the coast we made a stop to see more thrombolites. Still just look like rocks, but it is pretty cool to have now seen 3 of the very few sites in the world where they exist.

Thrombolites

We must admit that as we entered the city of Perth the stress levels rose. Having been outback for so long now the traffic lights, motorways and volume of traffic took some getting used to- and Perth is not that big a city! But, all our stresses were soon forgotten as two familiar Sydney faces joined us for a long weekend of fun.
With only 4 days to play with Sammi and Michael (AKA Ken), Dave and I planned an itinerary and played the role of tour guides. Having arrived at 11pm the night before, followed by a few drinks, we eased into the first day with bacon and eggs followed by a saunter around Kings Park. One of the largest inner city parks in the world, Kings Park overlooks the city and Swan River.

View across to Perth from Kings Park

The many gardens, which showcase plants from around the state (including our favourite Boabs), and acres of silken green grass sooths away any stress.

Sam, Michael & Leisa at Boab Tree, Kings Park

Blessed with a warm sunny day, we were soon relaxed and feeling a real holiday ambience.
Lunch overlooking Cottesloe Beach was followed by a walk along the water’s edge at Scarborough Beach, were we felt the soothing feel of sand between the toes. With these pristine beaches mere kilometres from the city centre, we were falling more in love with Perth with each passing minute.



Michael, Sam, Leisa, Rottnest Island

Just 19 kilometres off the coast of Perth lies Rottnest Island. Pristine waters surround the island, but with the water being a little on the cold side, only the boys ventured in for a dip. Dave assured us it was worth the initial chill, with tropical fish and the world’s most southerly coral specimens. But, it was the resident land animals we were keen to find- the Quokka’s.









Friendly Quokka's, Rottnest Island

Looking like a cross between a very small wallaby and possum, we soon discovered they were everywhere, and rather friendly. Mum with a bub in her pouch even ventured into the waterside pub! ‘Rotto’ is well worth a visit- only an hour by ferry, yet an entire world away......
The port city of Fremantle, 30 minutes south of Perth, was an unexpected surprise for all. Although still very much a working port, Fremantle is a relaxed, yet stylish town. Many old restored buildings combined with fashion boutiques, cafes, buskers and waterfront eateries gives ‘Freo’ a certain charm that we have not found elsewhere. Tour Leader Dave took us on a walking tour of the town.

Sammi and Leisa atop the Round House, Fremantle

We were soon inside a tunnel which had been carved through the limestone cliffs in the early whaling days. This led us to the top of the Round House- the oldest public building in WA (and once used as a prison). From here we could gaze out to sea, but also along the waterfront to our lunch destination- the Little Creatures Brewery. As boats bobbed in the water we dined on gourmet pizza and sampled a few of the beers.

Michael and Dave, Little Creatures Brewery

Walking off lunch we checked out the Freo Festival set up in the park opposite. Then it was off to Monument Hill. The highest point in town, we had 360 degree views across to Rottnest Island and Perth.
Our last day together arrived all too soon. A stroll along the main streets of Subiaco completed the ‘Taste of Perth’ tour. With many heritage listed homes, nice shops and parks, ‘Subi’ is yet another attractive feature of Perth. We were all agreed- Perth is small but alive, pretty and dramatic, laid back, yet cutting edge- we love it!

Saturday, November 7, 2009

Memories of Tasmania

As we journey towards Perth, the surrounding countryside looks more and more like Tasmania. The air is crisp, the pastures a lush green, the rivers are stained with the tannins of giant eucalypt trees and even the place names can be found in Tasmania! This brings back happy memories, for Tasmania is truly the most picturesque of all the states and territories.

The South West coast of WA is littered with National Parks and we stopped off to see the sights, as we weave our way north.

Elephant Rocks, they look more real in the flesh

Demark, is home to award winning pies and as we sailed through this hippy little town we stopped off to treat ourselves. Yummo. Good pie, certainly warmed our bellies against the chill in the air. Content we arrived at our camp for the night- Walpole. A peaceful town, it is close to majestic forests of giant tingle trees. The tingle tree is only found here and is a type of eucalypt, but does not have a taproot. Instead they have a shallow root system that spreads as they grow older, causing the trees to buttress. With not much planting them into the ground compaction by people and cars can cause them to fall over.

Grandpa Dave driving through a replica of the famous tingle tree

Hence in 1990 the most famous tree, which you could drive your car through, did indeed fall over. The tingles have adapted to fires, fungus and insects hollowing out their trunks, and only need a thin, healthy outer layer to continue growing.

Dave inside a tingle tree

To protect the tingle forest, but still be accessible by all, a tree top walk has been erected. Reaching a height of 40 metres, I can’t say I enjoyed the experience as the bridge spans swayed in the breeze of the tree tops. Back on terra firma, I preferred the walk through these ancient giants, which reach up to 75 metres high and have a girth of 20 metres.

Tree Tops Walk- 40 metres above ground level

Back at camp, I soon forgot the tree top ‘ordeal’ as a pair of Blue Wrens played near our home. Such pretty birds, they are quite plentiful in the South West. The endangered Black Cockatoos are also easy to spot over here and we watched a flock demolish a Bottlebrush Tree.

Swarbrick sculpture walk, Mt Frankland National Park, Walpole

Wall of perception, Sculpture walk- pretty cool in the middle of a forest!

Just like Tasmania, this region was once home to timber mills. The biggest is now the Shannon National Park and includes the Great Forest Trees Drive. A very pretty drive, it leads you deep into a grove of very big trees. Emerging from the forest, we headed for the coast and the French sounding D’Entrecasteaux National Park. It is a complete contrast to the tall forests, with its wild stretches of heath, sand dunes, cliffs and beaches. Windy Harbour, certainly lived up to its namesake. The bitterly cold wind whipped straight through our clothes. No wonder there are no tall trees here!

D'Entrecasteaux National Park- so very cold and windy

Some great views, but not all that comfortable to set up camp for the night, so it was off to Pemberton. Pemberton, a historic town in a small wine region, would have to be one of the prettiest spots in Australia. Surrounded by tall Karri forests, green pastures roll into a fertile valley, home to an amazing array of birdlife. Relaxing for the afternoon we were soon joined by the local ducks and Twenty-Eights (birds similar to a Port Lincoln Parrot). These very cheeky parrots were soon jumping onto our shoulder, wanting a share of our cheese and bikkies.


A cheeky Twenty Eight parrot on Dave's shoulder

Realising that we were not going to feed them, they opted to play a game of hide and seek. Perched atop our awning, they would peer over one side, when we said hello they would then retreat. We could then hear the pitter patter of their little feet as they ran across the awning to the other side, to once again peer over.
Good thing we recharged ourselves, for the following day it was off to the Gloucester Tree, a climbing tree once used as a fire lookout.

Dave climbing the Gloucester Tree
Dave half way up the Diamond Tree

Metal spikes jutting out from the trunk serve as a crude stairway some 60 metres to the top. The Diamond Tree- another climbing tree is where climber Dave got into action, reaching the halfway mark. I opted to play photographer instead......

Pemberton is surrounded by national parks and within the Warren National Park is the tallest of the climbing trees, the Bicentennial Tree. At 68 metres this was one climb that we did not attempt.

Aptly named...... sign in national park, Pemberton

We had planned to stay at Augusta next, but with an extra 6,000 expected in this small town for the Anaconda Adventure Race, we continued the 40 odd kilometres to Margaret River, but not before checking out Cape Leeuwin.

Australia's tallest lighthouse, Cape Leeuwin

The most South Westerly point of Australia, the Cape is home to mainland Australia’s tallest lighthouse and is where the Southern and Indian Oceans meet. From a vantage point you can actually see the meeting of the two oceans! The Southern Ocean appears to roll in from the left and the Indian from the right, before a miss mash in the middle. Unusually, the weather was becalmed the day of our visit. In rough seas the meeting point is all the more visible.


Voyages Winery, Margaret River

The journey onto Margaret River was picturesque, driving through wooded forests before arriving at shrub covered sand dunes. And of course the wineries........... Our tour of such took us to some of our favourites- Evans & Tate, Vasse Felix, and Leeuwin before ending the day at the most spectacular winery ever- Voyages. The winery and cellar door has been fashioned in my favourite architecture- Dutch/ South African. Rose gardens complete the picture...... and the wine aint bad either.