Wednesday, June 24, 2009

Kakadu and don't

With the Darwin sunsets too good to refuse, we enjoyed our last night again sitting on the warm sands of Mindil Beach, savouring a chilli squid dish. It was goodbye to Darwin and hello to the wetlands.
Mary River National Park (proposed) is butt up against Kakadu, but not as frequented. While the landscapes may not be as stunning, the wildlife is teeming. It was here, at Shady Camp that we saw our first crocodile in the wild. A huge 6 metre beast slunk past us, giving us a chill. We were safe behind a viewing platform, but his menacing eyes said it all. However, it was the smaller (yet still big) specimen on the river bank that had us entranced. He sat a mere few meters away from us, his mouth open wide in an aggressive pose (they also do this to keep their brains cool).

Mr Croc, amazing to see in the wild though

The dry season is a time for cool fire burn offs and a plume of smoke is a constant sight. Perhaps this grey haze confuses the wallaby’s, as we had 4 jump out in front of us during the middle of the day. We didn’t hit any- no wallaby stew for dinner.
As we entered Kakadu, it was only fitting that a Jabiru (Australia’s only stork) was on hand to greet us. This tall, orange legged bird did seem rather out of place beside the road, but the wetlands are never far away. During our 10 months of travels to date, we have enjoyed many National Parks, each with their own delights, however Kakadu is stunning. Broken up into 7 regions, our first foray was in the East Alligator region, in the shadow of the Arnhem Land escarpment. Even though we are in the dry the floodplains are still wet in parts creating a haven for birdlife. It is rather relaxing to watch the many species forage for food amongst the waterlilies. But it is not safe to enter the water anywhere in Kakadu. The saltwater crocodiles rule the roost here. With a life span reaching into hundreds of years, these remnants from the dinosaur age become sexually active at age 30. Having been hunted to near extinction until 1971, croc numbers have recovered dramatically with many males now sexually active and consequently very aggressive. With no fear of humans many rock holes are now closed to swimming.

Rock Art, Ubirr

Ubirr, one of the main rock art sites is also in this region, within the stone country perched above the floodplains. The top end of Australia is known amongst Australian Aborigines as ‘rich man’s land’. Food and water is plentiful, with no need to hunt for up to 8 hours a day, as many others have had to do. With more spare time comes more elaborate rock art and cultural activities. Layer upon layer of rock art tell teaching stories, but we both liked the ‘menu board’ in ‘Grandma’s kitchen’ the best. X-ray art is the style of painting in this region and fine examples of several fish species, turtle, goanna and other dinner delicacies adorned the cave wall menu.

The menu board, Ubirr

But, the best of Ubirr is presented when you reach the top of Ubirr Rock. The 360 degree view over the Nabab floodplain across to Arnhem Land is stunning. Rich green lands reach out to the escarpment and are filled with life. Watching the sun go down ends a rewarding day. It is no wonder this view is used in the current NT campaign (which you have probably seen on TV).

Wish you could see all of the view with me, Ubirr Rock

However one of our best days yet was to be followed by one of our worst nights yet. Kakadu is home to over 10,000 insect species and I think a representative from each was sent to infiltrate our camper. We were camped at Merl, within Kakadu National Park, and apparently known for its bugs. We did finally manage to bug proof ourselves for the night, however the constant buzz of mosquitoes hovering outside was ever present, broken only by the howl of a dingo. Dave braved venturing outside and was stunned by the sight of mozzies covering the entire camper- spaced about 5cm apart.

Art class, Merl Campground

Still ‘Merl’ was not all bad and the following day we were treated to a traditional painting lesson with a couple of artists from Arnhem Land. The art class is not publicised as too many people have turned up in the past, so it was only the few of us who had braved the mozzie mayhem. I used a traditional brush made from a bull rush, but did not have the 20 years experience of ‘Joe’.

Joe and Leisa with paintings (Leisa needs more practice)

The caravan park in Jabiru is resort class, so we cut short our stay at Merl and I am happy again enjoying the pool and bug free nights. From here we ventured to Nanguluwur and Nourlangie- home of the best rock art in Kakadu. Contact art- when the aborigines first met white man- is present here and includes a ship and many lace gloves, worn by English ladies of the time.

Contact Art- ship- Nanguluwur

However, the days here are hot, a dry 34 degrees. The weather is very dehydrating and energy zapping. After days of exploring in this heat, we are enjoying a rare ‘rest’ day to recover and recharge to explore more of this Kakadu.
Nabulwinjbulwinj man (he committed incest) at Noourlangie

Wednesday, June 17, 2009

Big Kids


Hoping he turns into a prince........

Ah, the joys of being a kid again. Driven around town, shouted lunch and dinner and taken to a crocodile park. Dave and I got to enjoy all that and more, when his folks joined us for a week in Darwin.
The week in Darwin felt like a ‘real holiday’. Palm trees lining the beach, endless sunny days and visiting all the tourist hot spots has put us in a real holiday mood. We checked our camper into the caravan ‘resort’, while Don & Brenda checked into Fawlty Towers. In actual fact their cabin was very nice, however a few glitches did provide an entertaining Fawlty Towers episode. The new Manager could not get the stove working either, but never fear, a portable cooker was brought to the room. Perhaps one of the resident frogs had tampered with it. Don was forever removing a frog from the ‘white house’, however a new one always seemed to be on hand to take up residency.

Hiding in the Botanic Gardens


When in a big city we quite often enjoy a saunter in the Botanical Gardens, and the Darwin display did not disappoint. Being one of the rare Botanic Gardens in a tropical region, it gives an insight into tropical vegetation, including a rainforest, wetland and the dreaded mangroves. I’m not a fan of mangroves, as they bring the bitey, itchy, scratchy midges which delight in biting every inch of available skin.

Don, Brenda, Leisa watching the sunset, Mindil Beach


The famous Mindil Beach Markets, whilst not stocking a great range of wares, certainly was a highlight. With over 50 different food stalls on offer, you are sure of finding something to suit your taste buds. With food in hand it is then time to hit the warm sand of Mindil Beach to watch the setting sun. We have all seen plenty of sun sets in our lifetimes, but this is without a doubt one of the best. It is not often in Australia that you get to see the sun setting over the ocean. But, here the sun descends to the horizon over the Timor Sea, creating a golden shimmer across the water. Listening to the ambient music from the markets, we sat and watched the sun set on another tropical day, the red sky slowly fading to black.
The Timor Sea is mesmerising, even without the beauty of a setting sun. What better way to enjoy her serenity than a seafood lunch on her shore. Thank you to Don & Brenda who spoilt us with one such lunch. As we dined palms danced in the breeze, the sun flitted across the water and a goanna came to check us out.

Our lunch guest

Such a relaxed lunch is a far cry from the stress we have both experienced whilst working in Sydney. However, it also lets us really enjoy how stress free we now are.
The weather forecast is the same every day up here- cloudless blue sky and sunny. However, we did experience a cold snap. The temperature plummeted to 28 degrees for a couple of days, but we are back over 30 now. Warm enough for me to go swimming again.

So close..... so big....


Lucky our visit to Crocosaurus Cove was warm enough to swim, otherwise we may have missed out on a swim with the crocs! (You swim in a pool next to the croc enclosure). It was a great day out with the awesome Northern Territory saltwater crocodiles. Some of the largest in captivity were on display, but the cutest were the 200 baby crocodiles in the nursery. If only they stayed that cute.

Baby crocs, Crocosaurus Cove


Sweetheart would certainly not be described as cute. Accidently killed while being removed in 1979, this cantankerous croc is HUGE. He is now stuffed and on display at the Museum. It is really mind boggling how big these creatures can get. We just hope to not encounter one in the wild too close!

Dave croc wrestling, Darwin Museum

The Museum is well worth a visit with an aboriginal art collection, animal displays over time and a feature exhibit to Cyclone Tracy. The exhibition lets you experience the devastation with photos, displays and an actual sound recording from the night. The wind made even more menacing by the sound of corrugated iron, ripped from its foundations, scraping against all in its path.


Don, WWII Oil Storage Tunnel

Our history lesson continued with a tour through the WWII Oil Storage Tunnels. These relics are a network of steel lined concrete tunnels built to store oil after the Japanese bombed Darwin’s above ground stores. However, completed after the war, they were never used. Today they are a subterranean gallery exhibiting wartime photos.

Sunday, June 7, 2009

Water, water


Eating the Yabbie's caught from Katherine River


Since Mataranka we have noticed a distinct lack of flies, not that we are complaining however! It is certainly nice to be fly net free.
Arriving in Katherine, our camp turned out to be a few hundred metres from the Katherine Hot Springs. Again these were not really hot and provided a welcome dip to escape the heat. The locals also enjoyed cooling off here and Dave certainly proved a hit with the kids. At one stage he had an aboriginal child on each of his arms and one clinging to his neck.

Springvale Homestead


We will pass through Katherine again on our journey west, so we were able to relax a little. After a morning cooling off in the spring again, we set off for the historic Springvale Homestead. Arriving in time to join the free history talk, we found the stories of its being and the floods very interesting. The grounds also accommodate campers, and with a pool filled by a natural spring, we may just stay here on our return.
Of course the highlight out here is Nitmiluk National Park (formally Katherine Gorge National Park). Having been previously ‘gorged out’, we are happy to say this one is worth it! A long and hot, yet picturesque walk was rewarded with a swim in the gorge. We are certainly looking forward to a 3 gorge cruise we have planned for our next stay.
After 3 days in the town of Katherine, we moved on to camp in the Nitmiluk National Park at Leliyn (Edith Falls). This spot is paradise. Not far from the lush green camp sites is a large pandanus fringed plunge pool, at the base of Edith Falls. With the temperature soaring towards 34 degrees, the water was very inviting. Apparently 6- 8 freshwater crocodiles also live in this pool, however unlike their saltwater cousins, they leave humans alone and are no threat.
After a blissful night’s sleep, we set off on the Leliyn Trail, a 3 kilometre round trip, that climbs to the top of the escarpment and then down to the pools located at the top of the falls. The walk gives fantastic views of the river below. Taking a dip in the top pools, with their crystal clear water, is our idea of heaven, and it was hard to say goodbye.
Top Pool, Edith Falls



Edith Falls

The Top End provides such a diverse and beautiful array of destinations. George Daly Hot Springs was to be our next stop. Alas, the vibe here was not good. A cloud of contagious anxiety seemed to permeate the air. Being only a couple of hours from Darwin and a long weekend, people were setting up camp, trying to force themselves to have a good time, on this short break. However, as we sat back and watched many couples just seemed to be bickering, hot and flustered. The hot springs here are hot- between 40 and 60 degrees. The most popular spot was where the Douglas and Daly Rivers met, a merging of cool and hot water. With cool water rushing over my toes and hot water lapping against my back, I couldn’t help but think it felt as if someone had peed in the water. On checking though, no one else was around.....
Dave and I were pleased to move on to the Litchfield National Park, just south of Darwin. We had been warned how busy it would be and about the lack of accommodation. This was not to be the case. Pandanus Caravan Park was only a week old, and we were the only caravan. The amenities were set up like an ensuite, which normally are shared. However, with the run of the park, Dave and I had a private bathroom each.
The good vibes were back. The local publican had told us you were allowed to take an esky to the Buley Waterhole. Paradise was back. What better refreshment than an icy cold beer while sitting in a waterhole, the cascading water creating a spa effect on your back. Aaaaahhhhh.

Leisa cooling off with a beer at Buley Waterhole

Litchfield National Park is now one of our favourites. A great diversity of attractions, with many walks rewarded with a cool swim, usually at the base of some magnificent waterfall. Wangi Falls

We enjoyed every minute- including the magnetic termite mounds. Up to two metres in height, these mounds are all in a north- south orientation- the insect worlds version of Stonehenge. The Lost City looks like ruins of some ancient civilisation, however are actually sandstone blocks and pillars weathered by the elements.

The Lost City, Litchfield National Park

To get here was 4WD only, yet an easy ‘comfortable’ track. But, it is Wangi Falls we could have swum at all day. How does the water stay so clear, clean and crisp.