Water, water

Like an iceblock on a scorching summer’s day, water is both soothing and calming to camp by.

Our campsite at Swan Hill, watching the horses that came down for a drink

After a relaxing sojourn in Swan Hill, where we camped by the Murray River, we journeyed via the bygone era port town of Echuca to a river campsite, a few kilometres north. We presumed we were again camping by the Murray in NSW, but it appears we may have been camping by the Goulburn River in Victoria. It didn’t really matter; we were again away from the lights, noise and the general hub bub of ‘civilisation’. We both really enjoy our time away from it all, relishing the simple things, watching a Kookaburra catch his dinner, the family of kangaroos who came down for a drink at dusk, the male kangaroos then fighting, Dave covering himself in mud for a ‘Murray Mud Treatment’ and slow cooking a tasty meal in our camp oven.

If only Dave could catch one..... Giant Murray Cod, Swan Hill


A certain contentment is to be had snuggling up in a warm, cosy bed, where outside it is pitch black. With torchlight you can see possums peering out of tree hollows in search of our fresh herb garden (which we now lock it in the car at night), and over breakfast we listen to the sounds of squabbling magpies. Being happy means the lack of facilities seem insignificant and life seems to plod along in an easy manner.
This is perhaps a good thing, considering my agreeance for a night of ‘rough’ camping in the Barmah Forest. We were both keen to see this forest, which is infact the largest River Red Gum Forest in the world, and now heritage listed. After finding our way in, thanks to a local (there are not many signs to the entrances), we were both in awe of the scene before us. As far as the eye could see where River Red Gums, with no other trees or shrubs overshadowing their beauty. The thick stands of trees stood tall, like a regiment of proud soldiers, as we drove the length of the forest.

River Red Gums, Barmah Forest

We then turned and looked at each other in despair. Having not seen any ‘facilities’ during our drive through the forest, we had to find another camp for the night, or ‘use the shovel’ for the first time. The forest was so magnificent, so we opted for the shovel......
Seeking out a suitable spot we stumbled across Boss’s Beach, located at a bend in the Murray River, and what was to become our favourite camp spot to date! We set up home and ventured along the sandy beach to the water. The water temperature was perfect, and being the only ones in the entire forest, I got out the soap and shampoo! After all we were going to be staying with friends for the next couple of days, so one must look presentable. I sat at the waters edge and shaved my legs, prior to immersing myself in the cool liquid to wash my hair. The bath session was topped off by the application of lotions and potions, perched upon my towel, after an eternity in the bath. I was now as sweet smelling as our paradise. Our only neighbours were the many Sulphur Crested Cockatoos, a vivid white against the background of River Red Gums.
After a restful slumber, we awoke to the news of a blue green algae outbreak in the Murray River......... mmmm perhaps Dave’s ‘bath’ was the culprit (hee hee), but we were off to visit our friends Terri, Richard, Reid and Jay once more in Shepparton. A stark contrast to our previous night, we enjoyed many games of pool, christening the newly covered table. Many, many laughs were had, but no one could seem to remember who was on their team or which balls they were going for! With very hospitable hosts, the next day we were taken to the Tatura Show, an annual event of all things country. If we had thought we had laughed ourselves silly the previous night, we were in for a real treat.

Terri & Leisa at Tatura Show

With an entrance fee of $8 per person, I thought that the show was sure to be of a high standard. We passed side show alley, which consisted of 3 rides and a couple of laughing clown games. Oh well, perhaps here they focus more on the animals and country wares. Mmmm with a blink of an eye we then passed all the craft, food and toy stalls, including the one show bag stand. The best was yet to come. Inside the ‘pavilion’ were the art/ craft and vegetable displays. My favourite part of the Sydney Royal Easter Show has always been the fruit and vegetable displays, so it was with some ‘shock’ that I viewed the scene before me.
The section of ‘Creative Vegetable Display’ consisted of a potato with toothpicks sticking out of it. A couple of sultanas made the eyes of this ‘echidna’. This show was about a hundredth the size of the Royal Easter Show, and it appeared the talent in the same scale. Still it was all very amusing, I mean interesting to look at. A ‘Mr Smith’ (name changed) seemed to have an entry in each vegetable category. With a stroke of luck Terri and I got to stand near Mr Smith and learn the tricks of the trade of displaying your vegies. Step 1. Wash vegetable (many still had dirt attached). Step 2. Prune any excess dangly bits (eg the eyes from your potatoes). Step 3. Arrange on a pretty plate, preferably with some kind of flower pattern around the edge. I was not sure of the judging criteria, but I too would have awarded that plate of 6 eggs first prize.......

Vegetable Display, Tatura Show

We were however, aware of the judging criteria for the Miss Tatura Showgirl competition. Having only had one formal entry, the call went out for any last minute entrants. Alas, only teenagers were allowed, otherwise I would have had my eyes firmly set on that sash. With the ‘line up’ complete, it was obvious who the ‘original one entry’ was- a girl donned in a bonnet with matching shirt and skirt ensemble. The last minute entrants were donned in shorts, jeans, singlets and thongs. The winner was chosen by her answer to ‘What do you think of the Tatura Show? With the judging finished, it was an agonising wait until the winner was announced......... the girl in the bonnet and matching rig out! Gee who would have thought...... even the judge couldn’t drum up any acting skills to look surprised.
With the Showgirl excitement over we walked past the animal displays and the Christian Puppet Show to the dodgems.

Best Cock in Show

Jay and Richard took one vehicle and Jo (Jay’s friend) and I the other. I didn’t bother listening to the instructions, Jo and I decided our objective was to bump into Jay & Richard at every opportunity. I displayed some very strategic driving skills, so was shocked to learn an audience member had remarked as to where I got my license (hee hee).
All in all we did have a very enjoyable and fun day, capped off with the purchase of some Fairy Floss. So if you are in Tatura/ Shepparton durig March next year, be sure to visit the show!
Jay & Jo, Tatura Show

With our quota of excitement over, we departed our friends and headed for Rushworth and Whroo, both old gold and ironbark towns. Rushworth has a National Trust classified heritage streetscape, however its heyday is well and truly over. Whroo is a completely deserted township and we spent an afternoon discovering her relics from the past. Once a booming mining town, you can still walk into the open cut mine at Balaclava Hill and through the 100 metre underground tunnel, once used to haul gold out by tram.

Mining tunnel, Whroo

Grassy patches and peppercorn trees are all that remain of the homesteads, but the cemetery and a couple of buildings still remain. Just be sure to watch where you walk though- every inch of this area has been dug in the search for gold.

Desert People

Want FLIES with that??

Perhaps Victoria is aboriginal for no water? We sure have not found a lake or river that is running, even at the Hattah Kulkyne National Park, where we were to enjoy another night of free camping. I do say enjoy, and we did, however the flies also seemed to enjoy our company a little too well. I guess with dry, empty lakes the flies thought we offered a little bit of salvation.

Group of Apostle birds, joining our campfire

As we headed further into Mallee country and the outback, the heat was ever present. I did enjoy the warm days, but as they can zap energy we opted to chill with our books and take a walk around the lake beds in the cool of dusk. With the ever present flies, it made it hard to relax, until I came up with my great invention....... a fly net food cover over the head. I was able to read and view the scenery all in the comfort of no flies! Dave said I looked like I was wearing a burqa and I mused that the desert women of Afghanistan are not so silly after all!

Enjoying a fly free cuppa and read!

Out here National Parks are made with the heat and flies in mind- there are walking tracks, but there are also driving discovery tracks. You grab a brochure at the start, available by reaching out from your car window, and read about the points of interest, which are numbered along the way. A great way to see the bush- from air conditioned, fly free comfort........
With the temperature predicted to soar further, we moved onto a ‘city’ and caravan park- Mildura. Aaaahhh, the great thing about built up areas- no flies. As we swam and lazed on the grass beside the pool, the discomfort of the day prior was soon a distant memory. It was a welcome, yet strange sight to see such thick, spongy green grass. Infact the whole town of Mildura was green and well watered, all compliments of the Murray River. However, with most of Victoria and SA on water restrictions and with no end to the drought in sight, I’m sure the residents of such suffering towns would not be too happy to know sprinklers are running 24/7 to keep what is traditionally desert land so green!
Having been to Toowoomba on our travels, we have seen where the Darling River starts its journey twisting and turning south. On a day trip exploring the Mildura area, we arrived at Wentworth- the destination of where the Darling River meets the Murray River. The rivers are quite full and it is hard to imagine that further down the Murray’s path she becomes drier, providing little water for our South Australian cousins.

The meeting point of the Darling and Murray Rivers

But it was soon back to the lake that once was, on a visit to Mungo National Park- once a massive inland lake, prior to the ice age that is. Mungo Lake was made famous by the skeletal discoveries of Mungo man and woman, confirming the existence of humans over 20,000 years ago. There have also been many prehistoric animal skeletons discovered, but the most famous landmark is the Great Wall of China, so formed by the drying lake.

The Great Wall of China

Mungo National Park is in true desert country, so again we set off on a 70km driving tour of the park. Along the way, we stopped to walk various sites. At each site we came across animal skeletons bleached white by the sun. We know animals die, but it seemed rather odd to have such abundance on view. Perhaps the heat is just too much for some. Until the late 70’s this area was a vast sheep station. The decaying relics, some of which date from the 1800’s, leave a permanent reminder of how tough life out here would have been. All that remains of one derelict homestead is the underground dugout, built to escape the searing summer heat.

Once a happy homestead. Notice dugout in background

At another the wool shed still stands, with the stench of sheep ‘shit’ and lanolin still lingering in its walls some 30 years later. The trip was worthwhile, but it was nice to know we do not have to make our living from such a harsh countryside!
Today having zig zagged between NSW and Victoria, we have arrived at Swan Hill. We are camped on the edge of the Murray, which is again providing water for a green campsite. Dave has thrown the yabby trap in, so tomorrow we may be feasting on a crustacean dinner!

On the road again

Dave and I are on the road again, after a week of R&R in Melbourne (travelling can be very tiring!). We certainly re-charged the batteries staying at Amanda’s very comfy pad in Carlton, with her two gorgeous cats- Mini and ‘Queen’ Bessie. We also popped over to the Hilton to catch up with our friend Sammi and Sydney friends Jo, Jamie and baby Gab.
But it wasn’t all R&R-

Fairy Tree and dinosaur slide, Fitzroy Gardens

We did manage a stroll through the very green Fitzroy Gardens and an explore through Captain Cook’s Cottage- OK not much for a week, but hey I had cats to play with! And then there was the Foxtel....... (we did get to see both Sound Relief concerts!)
Dadwells Bridge- the home of THE Giant Koala, and where we had left our camper. Over the week, Dadswells had 2 inches of rain,

Scramble up to Hollow Mountain

which certainly settled the dust. We opted to stay another night and walked- or should I say- scrambled over rocks to the top of Hollow Mountain. The Grampians would have to be one of my favourite views to date. Words alone cannot express the sheer beauty of plain lands surrounded by mountains made of undulating rocks. T

Views from the top of Hollow Mountain

the sun seems to flit across these structures, creating an artist’s palate of colours for your visual pleasure. From the top of Hollow Mountain we could see for 360 degrees, across the valleys below made up of olive groves, national park and grazing land- enough to calm anyone’s soul.
However, we moved on to Little Desert National Park- which is desert in name only. Here we camped beside the Wimmera River,

River Red Gum- the photo does not do justice to the beauty

which is in reality now a dry creek bed with the occasional billabong. The banks are lined with River Red Gums, which boldly display their silvery trunks against the clear blue sky. I could sit and gaze at these trees for hours, which is a good thing, as they are also known as ‘widow makers’.


River Red Gum- AKA The widow maker- check out the fallen branch!

We made sure not to camp underneath though. We were to be the only ones camping here, that is other than the Western Grey Kangaroos and Mum Emu and her 4 chicks. These are the first emus we have come across, but as we venture further into Mallee country, we have been assured of seeing more. After so long of walking through dense bush and forest, it is a pleasant change to amble through the flat, low lying scrub of the Mallee. There is something very peaceful about wide open spaces.
With the threat of bushfires now behind, we fired up the campie for a vegie and lentil soup. As the sun descended we sat around our camp fire mesmerized by the flickering flames. Occasionally we would look up to watch the stars. Out here with no other light, or a bright moon, we could vividly see the Milky Way, Saucepan, Southern Cross and all those other ‘ones’ I can’t name. I also watched a UFO hover in the distance.

Dimboola- a town staright from the 70's with this relic caryard!

Sceptic Dave, proceeded to explain to me how the mind cannot perceive objects at such a vast distance, and therefore they can appear to ‘move’. Perhaps it is good he quashed my daydream- a rather scary thought to be the only ones out in the bush with a UFO in the distance!
To be safe from potential UFO attacks (hee hee), we moved on to another free campsite at Lake Albacutya. Again this lake has no water, but has not had any since 1975! I don’t think it will ever be a lake again. Still it is a relaxing spot and comes with showers (albeit luke warm). So, it is goodbye from me as I head for a ‘real shower’.


The sun setting over our free camp

Shades of brown

After the pristine beauty and abundant flora and fauna of Tasmania, there is only one word for Victoria- drought.
After leaving Melbourne, we headed for Ballarat. As far as the eye could see were brown, wilting trees and a landscape that seemed to be crying out for water. Not a green blade of grass in sight, just vast paddocks of brown. Ballart itself is a ‘pretty’ town, with many heritage houses and grand buildings from its goldrush past. It also has a ‘Shepparton Factory Outlet’, where we re-stocked on non perishable foods!
The dry Botanic Gardens

A visit to the Botanic Gardens the dryness is not confined to the countryside. Having seen brochures of the lush green, flower filled gardens it was rather confronting to witness the devastation that the drought has brought. Many flower beds are now ‘dirt beds’ and the grass a patchy brown. It seems a real shame that the tallest examples of Redwood trees in Australia have been left to die. Over 150 years old, they will not make it to the next century.
As we left the gardens, we drove past the lake. Or should I say ‘paddock’. The lake is bone dry. It is a ‘weird’ sight to see piers, rowing clubs and boat sheds with jettys out to nowhere.
Daylesford, in the middle of Victoria’s spa country, again brings images of a green countryside. The reality, we were to discover, is another region of yellow grass that crunches underfoot. However, the region does still possess a certain magic. With over 80% of naturally occurring mineral spring water in Australia, we discovered the source of Deep Spring Mineral Water!



Dave filling up our Deep Spring Mineral Water

Having filled up a container, we have been enjoying our ‘home made’ flavoured versions. Tonight, I am enjoying a refreshing lemon and mint tipple. I am still awaiting the health benefits, apparently the bicarbonate balances the pH in my bloodstream, calcium and silica are good for the bones, magnesium for healthy kidneys, potassium is good for the mind and muscles, sodium helps keep the tummy in check and sulphate purifies the liver- I will be a new woman! We also got to check out our friend Jonnie’s newly purchased B&B. So, if you are ever in Daylesford make sure you stay at Jonnie’s place!
Off we were again to free camp at Green Hill Lake. The lake is famous for trout fishing, and I was sure that this time Dave would deliver the goods. The rod was handy and we had some new lures. We should have known better, the lake has been bone dry for 3 years now, the boat ramp leading to a dry, cracking lake bed.

Leisa swimming in the lake....

Oh well, being 3kms south of the town of Ararat, it was still a pretty place to camp. We walked the path into Ararat- another pretty historic gold town- and ambled along the main street, which is bordered by grape vines. These towns have been hit by the drought, recession and bushfires, so the local hairdresser was having a special on walk-in men’s haircuts. With an offer too good to refuse Dave has now had his first haircut in 7 months! I am still getting used to this clean cut version, having finally grown used to his long curls.
With a ‘new man’ to show off, we moved on to Halls Gap, in the Grampians. We settled in a Caravan Park, situated in the centre of town (OK so it is a very small town), yet brimming with wildlife. Ducks, cockatoos and kangaroos have been over to check us out and not to forget the kookaburra that has taken up residency in our herb garden!

'Kooka' in our herb garden!

The caravan park is hemmed on one side by a mighty rock escarpment of The Grampians, so we decided to take off for a short walk and explore this popular tourist destination. Our ‘short walk’ has left us both completely knackered, but we got to see the Venus Bath’s (rock pools) and Spittlers Waterfall (not that there was really any water).

Venus Rock Pools, Halls Gap

The Grampians are certainly the greenest part of Victoria so far, but still the lack of solid rain is ever present. It is so dry that the smell of eucalyptus pervades the air as the gumtrees seem to give off any sense of life. However, it must be said, The Grampians are stunning. They really have it all- sweeping views of the valleys below, McKenzie Falls, which are still running strong, aboriginal art and walks for all grades of fitness.

Mackenzie Falls

But we were to discover the real attraction of The Grampians.......... ROCK CLIMBING! Having met up with Liz, a friend who has recently moved back to Melbourne, we were invited to join her and 10 others at a campsite at Dadwell Bridge in the Grampians, over the long weekend. We were assured we would get on well with the whole ‘rock climbing’ group,

We have dinner guests!- Anne Marie, Johnno & Liz

and we have to admit you couldn’t meet a more welcoming bunch. Having already walked in various spots, we knew that as they climbed we could easily amuse our selves discovering more of her beauty, from the ground. Aaaah no. We were roped in (pardon the pun) and gave it a go. Afterall, the other guys made it look so easy, and certainly impressed us with their skill. Both Dave and I did manage to scramble part the way up a ‘climb’- i.e a vertical rock face. Leisa holding on for dear life..... took all my strength and energy and I am finding it hard to type, but know I will be even sorer tomorrow. The fact that we did not get to the top of the climb is not too disappointing, after all it was a grade 15 climb!! Starting at one, the grades go up to about 30. I did feel a little better on the grade 11 one I did today.


Carl, leading and setting up the climb
Climber Dave

After being the two of us for a while now, it certainly was fun to be part of a big group. Besides the exhilaration of learning a new sport, there was much fun and frivolity. Many laughs were had too, however many were at my expense...........
Liz had briefed Dave and I on what to expect at Dadswell Bridge, i.e not much, except a ‘big ugly koala’. I had also read in the guide book that Dadswell Bridge is famous for its giant koala. I must admit I was quite excited to see this ‘big old koala’, who obviously didn’t venture far. Having made friends with a german tourist back at Halls Gap, I was happy to share my knowledge of where he was guaranteed a koala sighting. You can therefore, imagine my horror when we drove past said koala, and I was to discover that he was a ‘big’ koala as in the big banana, big pineapple....... Some poor german tourist must think I was having a lend of him.