Falling from the sky

Port Fairy turned out to be a one of the prettiest towns we have visited, although the heavens opened up and now a few days later still has not stopped. Being without rain for quite some time, we are not too bothered. However, we did muse how lucky we were to have travelled the Great Ocean Road and being able to enjoy all her sights in dry weather.

As we headed towards Portland, the countryside became greener. Lush fields housing contended cows brought back memories of the Victoria we both once knew. Not the brown dustbowl we had recently encountered. The weather closed in but we managed to see some of the local sights. Bridgewater, 20 minutes from Portland is home to a very appealing white sand beach. Although raining we sat in the cafe and gazed out to sea. The road continued on to Cape Duquesne where walking tracks led to a blowhole and Petrified Forest on the cliff top. An urban myth was that a big sand dune blew over the trees, which then solidified and created the Petrified Forest. They are actually a natural phenomenon, created in such limestone areas as this. However, it was an eerie scene to view such a moonscape with turbines from the wind farm in the background.
Petrified Forest and me looking like a Teletubbie..

The blowhole was not blowing, but as I stared at the vast sea before me, I watched the many white caps forming on the waves. My Granny used to tell me the white caps were actually sea horses riding the waves. To this day, I still imagine such and possibly will never see otherwise.

The back road from Bridgewater to the main road to Nelson, our home for the night, is one of the prettiest drives so far. As the sun tried to break through grey clouds, we were the only ones on the road, and putted along at an easy pace. This region is part of the Limestone Coast, and it was not uncommon to see sinkholes and limestone caves right by the roadside.

Kangaroos sheltering from the rain- we had to shoo them to get under the tree instead

We awoke to Anzac Day, and more rain, but set off for Mt Gambier in South Australia. We have both been here before as kids, but it is still a must see. What other town has a brilliant blue lake, situated in an extinct volcano crater. Or, a sunken garden, as created in the Umpherston Sinkhole (a sinkhole is formed when the top of a limestone cave falls to the floor). Infact, you can dive through various caves that run underneath the whole town.

Umpherston Sinkhole, Mt Gambier

With the rain ever present, we planned our sightseeing between showers. However, in the one day we walked to the top of the Mt Shank crater and then the Centenary Tower. Both gave amazing views, but the ol' butt muscles are feeling it now.
Centenary Tower, Mt Gambier

It was exciting to be able to buy Victoria’s Sunday Herald Sun here- turning to the travel section, who should be on page 23, but a cute guy in his swimmers (AKA Dave). A story I had submitted had been published and a big photo of Dave accompanied it.

We made it to the top of Mt Shank


Blue Lake, Mt Gambier

As we continue towards Adelaide, we have taken the coastal route, soaking up the last of our ocean views. A comfort stop at Beachport was a true unexpected surprise. There is an air of sophistication about this seaside village. From the white sand beach and pure aquamarine sea to National Trust buildings, this town would be the perfect spot for some serious relaxation. We were both also very taken with the tiny 1800’s church. It was soooo cute, with only 3 little pews, tiny piano and cosy ambiance. Leaving town we took the Bowman Scenic Drive, which gave spectacular views of the rugged coastline and the Pool of Siloam. If only it had been a tad warmer we would have floated in this pool- being seven times saltier than the sea, you could easily float and read a book!

We have found ourselves camping at Robe for the night. The sun is trying her best to break through the rain, so we have camped by the beach of Guichen Bay. Robe is another delightful sea side town, with many historic buildings for us to explore.

The green green grass of home

We were finally levered off Amanda’s very comfy lounge and the Foxtel remote prised from our hand. It took a day for us to settle back into our lifestyle, but are both sporting Cheshire grins now.
Me at the start of the Great Ocean Road (in pylon)

Heading out of Melbourne we stopped off at Torquay, to enjoy one of the best coffees to date (on par with Fioro Cafe in Sydney). Home of iconic Australian surf ware brands, we shuffled past the many outlets- no room for more clothes in this camper.
The start of the Great Ocean Road was a vision to behold. I took time to imprint the ocean scene to memory, opening and closing my eyes to ensure I had it just right. I love the ocean and know once we head ‘up the guts’ the rolling waves will be replaced with red dust . Bells Beach had just had its annual surfing contest and we stopped to watch those brave enough to enter the ‘very cold’ water. The beach is nothing to rave about, but the break off the reef is.
Bells Beach, Great Ocean Road

Home for the night was Lorne. The days are getting shorter and colder, however we can see how this spot would be popular in summer. We camped by the river, and with recent rains our door opened mere centimetres from the lapping water, and ducks.

The birds at our Lorne campsite were rather friendly- Cockie scared me a little...

An afternoon stroll along the beach led us to the pier. As Dave looked over the edge a huge Manta Ray swam by. This thing was huge- the width easily 3 metres.
The next day, our morning walk was to Erskine Falls, complete with water and many ferns. It sure was nice to see such greenery and water in drought effected Victoria.


Erskine Falls, Lorne

The coastline of the Great Ocean Road is most spectacular between Lorne and Apollo Bay and we lapped up every minute. Kennett River, about 20 kilometres from Lorne is home to the biggest koala population we have ever seen.
Cute koala, Kennett River

More than half a dozen were enjoying a nap in the warm sun (do they ever do anything else?). It was soon time for our rest too.

Real koala, Kennett River

Our home for the evening was a free camp at Aire River. The countryside reminded us of England- perhaps because it was so very green, and the river bordered by marshes. After months of dirt brown drought, it was nice to pull up and step out onto thick green grass. This area of Victoria is obviously still getting a decent rainfall.

The Aire River campsite is one of the overnight stops of the Great Ocean Walk. An 8 day trek, we are certain the Great Ocean Road has much more appeal. We walked a mere few metres of the track and boy that was enough for us. Perhaps having had our butts planted on a sofa for the past 2 weeks, we had lost some fitness. Or perhaps it was the fact that the bit we did was up a steep sand blast. However, the view to the valley below was worth it- so tranquil a setting with the river, defined by tall reeds, meandering through rolling green hills. It was tranquil from above, but as we descended and walked past the tall reeds a flock of hidden swamp birds took flight. That got the heart pumping.

It was not to be our only bird encounter for the evening. Dinner was ‘Leisa’s Special Cous Cous’. I include Chick Peas in this dish and had a giggle as I opened the tin, bought from Coles. Why did I giggle, because my Cousin Andrew has his face plastered all over it- check it out!! During dinner we were joined by a Tawny Frog Mouth Owl, settling on the ground a few metres from us. However, after dinner as Dave prepared our campfire, Mr Owl obviously took exception to Dave’s fire lighting skills and swooped past, clipping his ear! I’m glad it was him and not me!
I was excited for our next days stretch of the Great Ocean Road, which included the 12 Apostles (although there are only 8 left), Loch Ard Gorge, London Bridge, Razorback, the Blowhole and more. It was back in 1982 that I last ‘did’ the Great Ocean Road and have fond memories, especially as The Pirate Movie, starring Christopher Aitkens, was being filmed at Loch Ard Gorge, while we were there. I use to lurrrvve Christopher Aitkens, so was very excited, but no didn’t see him then. Today the formations, are still as impressive as my childhood memories. It is a powerful scene before you, watching the Apostles tempting the ocean to break their hold.
The 12 Apostles, Great Ocean Road


With these structures formed over millions of years, it made both of us feel very old to know that since out last visit London Bridge had fallen down. Back in 1990 one of the arches of London Bridge collapsed into the ocean below. A couple having an affair were stranded on the newly formed island and were rescued by helicopter, their indiscretion plastered all over the evening news.
London Bridge has fallen down, Great Ocean Road

Tonight we are settled in Port Fairy, a very pretty port town with many historic 19th century buildings. We are once again enjoying life on the road and all that it brings. I devour books as we travel. Ranging from romance and trash to thriller and insightful, I recently finished reading about the creation of the English Oxford Dictionary. This is not as boring as it sounds, but rather a tale of murder, madness and of course the English Oxford Dictionary. Enjoying a quiet relaxed moment after a days sightseeing, I educated Dave on the word Chaloner. He looked at me rather perplexed as I explained it is an obsolete name for a man who manufacturers shalloon. Still he looked perplexed until l explained shalloon is the woollen lining material for coats. Oh well, it keeps me sane and gives Dave a giggle.

We have learnt

As we are still enjoying the delights of living in a house, I began to ponder what we have learnt over our now 6&1/2 months of travel. We have really been getting on well and the enormous amount of time spent together has meant we have really got to know each other, in a relaxed atmosphere. But here is what we have learnt:
• Country town op shops have the best gear and labels. I have bought a couple of tops- both under $2.50
• Country people speak through their teeth to avoid eating flies
• Country people love a chat (I guess they have the time for such)
• Country towns still have ‘real’ antique/ bric a brac finds cheap. We have enjoyed many hours wading through eclectic collections. You could spend months scouring country towns and setting up shop in Sydney for a great profit
• Caravan Park laundry’s are a great magazine and book exchange- all free
• Buying food from road side stalls and supermarket markdowns, is a very cheap way to feed ourselves
• Halls Gap (Grampians, VIC) has the most expensive supermarket to date
• Eungella (inland from Mackay, QLD) has the best platypus sighting
• Eumundi Markets (near Noosa, QLD) are the best markets, with an amazing array of produce, arts, crafts, clothing, bric a brac and imported wares
• Favourite National Park is Mt Field (north of Hobart, TAS). Such diversity- almost 4 national parks in one with an abundance of wildlife
• It never rains in Victoria, endless sunny days
• Best coffee is still be had at Cafe Fioro, Pitt Street, Sydney
• Baby boomers own the roads Monday to Friday, 10am to 2pm. We all belong to an exclusive club as we wave to each other on the road
• We don’t like 4WD’ing unless necessary
• GPS’s have a very sensitive touch screen (we have just had to buy our second GPS)
• Everyone seems to have lived in Sydney at some stage in their lives
• Australia is HUGE
• Not all doctors whip you in and out of an appointment
Now, that last point needs some explaining........... Dave and I made an appointment with a local Doctor for check-ups, ensuring we were fit and equipped for our sojourn into the Never Never. I went in first and had the usual blood pressure etc checked. I explained that we were travelling and can sometimes lack energy. Now this doctor, just happens to be a self proclaimed leader in overcoming anxiety, which in turn leads to increased energy, anti aging, weight loss and more! He then proceeded to explain, at length, that he had discovered and researched a natural supplement that was the answer to basically a long and healthy life! I began to get a little sceptical..........
The supplement is called Inositol. It is found naturally in corn, oats, nuts, seeds, legumes, rockmelon and citrus. It can also be bought, in powder form, from selected Health Food Stores. He recommended that I eat the above mentioned foods, as well as taking a level teaspoon of the supplement a day. I would then have the following ‘miracles’ happen:
• Anti ageing- I will look younger for my years
• 3-5 kilos of weight loss
• Muscles will develop
• Any cravings for chocolate or chips will cease
• Clarity of mind
• Feeling of calmness
And some other effects I have forgotten. I oohed and aahed in all the right places, basically to end the lengthy appointment. I did giggle to myself, I could imagine the conversation that Chemical Engineer Dave and he would surely have next.
Forty minutes into Dave’s consultation the receptionist buzzed to remind the doctor that there were other patients waiting. I think Dave and Doc could have discussed Inositol all afternoon.
Inositol is not an easy supplement to find, with many Health food Stores not stocking it. Some that do only stock the Musashai brand, which is very expensive. Our ever so thoughtful doc told us where we could score. I say score as I felt he was becoming our drug dealer- he offered to help us out if we couldn’t find any.
Anyway, with all those amazing claims, Dave and I have decided to give it a ‘trial’. The Natural Health brand Inositol was only $25 for 150 grams. We should start to feel some good effects in 3 days, and amazing by day 7. I shall be sure to let you know the results of our ‘trial’.



Town Hall during the Comedy Festival- the area is alive and buzzing

We seem to be having our own comedy moments, without the many shows we are frequenting. We have now seen Judith Lucy, very funny for those of us approaching 40(however Doc says we will now never look a day over 37 with Inositol!). However, we could both relate to her ‘getting older’ challenges and health issues.
The Best of the Edinburgh, comprised 3 artists. Being a Canadian, Irishman and Englishman, I was expecting them to walk into a bar.......... (OK not a very funny joke). Australians enjoy a good laugh at themselves, and their observations of us, certainly had the audience in stitches.
The best show to date has been the English comedian, Steve Coogan. He is very famous in the UK, and I can see why. He is a very talented- singing, portraying different characters and is very funny to boot.

The boys at cousin Andrew's place

We are still here for just under a week and will be catching some more cheap comedy shows, mixed in with a smattering of social events. We have enjoyed many a dinner or drink out with friends and relatives in Melbourne. It will certainly be time to hit the road recover!

Home Sweet Home

As I type this, I am sitting in a recently renovated terrace in Carlton North. Dave and I are ‘babysitting’ two very naughty Burmese cats for a couple of weeks. We have every mod con conceivable complete with a newly renovated bathroom and kitchen, Foxtel (with EVERY channel), oven, microwave and space! We must admit that we both got a little excited to be living ‘in a real house’ for a couple of weeks, and not having a shower in thongs! The terrace is located just around the corner from Rathdowne Village and La Porchetta- the scene of the Benji killing for those Underbelly fans.
And to think it was only a few days ago that we were free camping............
We arrived in Bendigo and where presented with a town of enormous wealth- the gold here was obviously in abundance at one point. We were staying just out of town and as we drove to our diggings, we passed Victoria Hill- the historic mining site and tourist destination. Bendigo was also a victim of the recent bushfires, and we got to witness first hand the destruction. Victoria Hill was completely burnt out and therefore closed to the public. Through the chain wire fence, we could see burnt trees and a black carpet, where once there was grass. The smell of ash was still present in the air. Fire is truly an amazing beast, we continued our drive past houses untouched by her flames yet the next burnt to the ground.

Victoria Hill- bushfire victim

After an enjoyable walk through the Botanic Gardens (including Dave’s favourite fern garden), we dined out for lunch. Well, actually we stopped at the Beechworth Bakery, and since it was national pie week, we bought two pies for a total of $3.75. Dave said he may even take me out for lunch again soon......
After the excitement of our meat pies, we moved onto Maldon (another) historic gold mining town, but the best example of 19th century streetscape. An exploration of the town led us to the Mount Tarrengower heritage listed fire tower. Still in use, the tower gives 360 degree views quite literally for miles and miles. I stopped halfway up, but Dave ventured to the very top, where there was a fireman on the lookout for any signs of smoke in the distance, fortunately there wasn’t.


Vaughan Springs, double click on photo to enlarge. See the trams and teepee in the background. I don't know why either.......

Located a few kilometres from Castlemaine, Vaughan Springs, was to be our free camp base for a couple of nights, so it was off to set up home. Vaughan Springs was the hot spot for Melbournians to chill on a weekend in the 1920’s and 30’s. Whilst still a very pretty spot, she is past her prime and showing the devastating effects of drought. With signs of structured grass areas, green European trees, a flowing river and swimming pool it was easy to see what an oasis this area once was for city folk. The huge slide and 50 metre running track are still operational today. We both relived our childhood on the slide, but if anyone can explain why there is a 50 metre running track please let me know!

Dave on the 'big' slide, Vaughan Springs


However, the best feature of this place was the free hot showers- complete with a pretty pink shower curtain! This was to be the only water to be had though, with still hot days, we both were praying for some rain. Even one of the always flowing springs was bone dry. Rather disappointing seeming I had fallen over and grazed my ankle to get there!
My fall, Vaughan Springs (sympathy pic....)



The 'dry' spring, Central Spring at Vaughan Springs


With our fellow camper offering to watch over our home, we ventured into Castlemaine. Another ‘gold’ town the Visitors Centre is located in the grand old market building, still with the Goddess of Agriculture still sitting proudly on the roof. Dosing up on our fill of culture, we ambled through the Art Gallery, greatly impressed with the calibre it contained. I fell in love with a particular water colour and spent a great deal of time imprinting the image in my mind. David was taken with a number of pencil etchings- some people have a real talent.
Of course Castlemaine is most famous for its Castlemaine Rock. Debuting during the gold years, the peppermint flavoured candy is still produced by the Barnes family, now in its fifth generation. Armed with several tins, we left for home, and our last night before heading back to the big city.

Botanic Gardens, Castlemaine

Driving into Melbourne the sky was gray and lightening speared the sky. It was finally raining, but we could have done without the storm effects. Lucky we know our way around Melbourne pretty well now as Dave had programmed the GPS to give directions in German. Oh well, it sure makes travelling an educational experience. Since arriving at our ‘home’ in the city, we have had many social engagements catching up with friends and family. We will need to go on a road trip to recover.....
We have so far seen the Judith Lucy show- highly recommended- and have tickets to see Steve Coogan for Saturday night. Melbourne sure is fun!